Other notes from Max… On Rome, and what you should know -
There are three St. Peter’s in Rome, St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican, St. Peter in Chains, and St. Peter in Montorio. The last holds the jewel of all jewels, my favorite church in all of Rome. Called the Tempietto it was designed by Bramante at the beginning of the 16th century. The dome inside is so very simple, yet beautiful beyond belief.
One of my tricks of Rome is the self-timer on my camera. Place your camera on the floor of a church or the back of a pew and set the self timer, step back a few feet, and you will get a crystal clear picture of those amazing ceilings.
While you are on the Monte Verde try and get yourself a dinner reservation at Il Cortile di Aldo Salvi on Cia Alberto Mario, 26. The person who recommended it to me said it’s where ‘the serious Italians go to seriously eat.’ I have not gone wrong once eating there.
Don’t forget to read ‘Venus of the Empire,’ an amazing biography by Flora Fraser that charts the life of Pauline Bonaparte. Charlotte gave this to me for Christmas and it remained on my bookshelf for two whole months before I realized the eminent impact of said person on my learning here.
Charlotte also sent me the divine book ‘Built of Books: How Reading Defined the Life of Oscar Wilde.’ Reading this gave insight into seemingly every aspect of life– my pen rarely seems to lift from the page for lack of a line to quote in the future.
When in Rome…
E. Volpetti
Via Marmorata, 47, 00153 Roma – Tel (06) 57 13 77 59
Without doubt the most amazing deli, specialty food that store I, or anyone in my family, has ever been too. From white truffles to fresh ravioli, to ricotta stuffed zucchini flowerettes, to prociutto some say is the ‘best best best EVER.’ NOT to be missed!
Fabriano Boutique
Via del Babuino, 173, 00187 Roma – Tel. (06) 32 60 03 61
Known for its amazing art supplies since 1264, the company has expanded and grown now selling spectacular leather goods, goregous invitation blanks, and pens from all over the world.
Renato e Luisa
Via dei Barbieri, 25, 00186 Roma – Tel (06) 68 69 66 0
Hidden away in an alleyway right off the Largo Argentina in the center of town, this restaurant is classic, classic Italian fare. Little to no English, on the menu or spoken by the wait staff, always leads me to the best food–and this place is no exception. Try the swordfish and asparagus stuffed ravioli–if it is one of the day’s specials. I can attest that the filet with prune sauce is out of this world!
Felice a Testaccio
Via Mastro Giorgio, 27/29, Roma Tel. (06) 57 46 80 0
Known by Romans as perhaps the best restaurant in Rome, a reservation is required and the interior leaves a little to be desired (like most Italian restaurants), but once you have tasted the food all citicisms will fall to the wayside. Spaghetti with parmesan and black pepper is tossed at your table…considered the house specialty for a reason.
We look forward to more postcards from Max’s travel to Florence, Capri and beyond…. Coming soon! Thank you, Max!
Photography by Max Sinsteden.
Graphics and Layout by Matthew Kowles.
January 5, 2010
